Tastings, Ben Edwards
When Nick Farr, of Farr Rising, was faced with a career choice of either making wine or studying physical education, he chose the noble rot. It was a lifestyle choice. Tasting wine and enjoying food at great restaurants just made sense to a young man of 18.
Nick, now 24, is driven to make great wine like his father, gary Farr, of Bannockburn fame.
Three years ago, they bought a 37-hectare property near Batesford and a new winery has just been completed. According to Nick, the land looked "just like Burgundy". Of the 12 hectares that were planted, chardonnay and a mixture of pinot noir clones take pride of place, with a little viognier as well.
Nick wants to make elegant pinot like old-fashioned burgundy, in which whole bunches of grapes are used, including the stems, instead of the fruit being destemmed when it gets to the winery. This seams a natural move given that Nick, just like his father, has spent time with Jacques Seysses at the great Domaine of Dujac in Burgundy. Jacques is an avid proponent of using whole bunches in his winemaking and Nick loves the way this method produces earthy, complex characters that speak of the origins of wines.
The wines Nick makes under the Farr Rising label belie his age and show a flair for elegance and finesse, rather than brute force and power, and all offer terrific value. There can be little doubt that with so many positive influences and opportunities at his feet, Nick's star will continue to rise.
The bright garnet 2002 Geelong pinot noir ($25) exhibits heady aromas of vibrant fresh cherries and plums, with complex gamey aromas redolent of mushrooms, Asian spices and ample toasty oak. The light to medium-bodied palate is quite silky, with abundant levels of fruit, a fine tannic structure and really lively acidity drawing to a long finish... Given just six to 12 months, this wine should integrate fully and be terrific for another five. At $25 this is seriously good value pinot noir.
Ben Edwards is president of the Australian Sommeliers Association (Victoria) and distributes French wines.